Friday, September 10, 2010

My Top down Fair isle Sweater





I was perusing a knitting magazine and a skirt modeled to accompany the featured sweater grabbed my eye, the burgundies and scarlets on a cream background combined with pleats fascinated me more than anything else in the magazine. I couldn't stop thinking about that skirt SO I decided to knit a sweater inspired by it. Seeing as this is going to be a longer project I thought I would make it a project for my blog.

I charted out various colorful designs on graph paper, laboriously using markers to get a feel for how the colors and pattern would work. Some were too busy and didn't have the right geometric feel I wanted.
Eventually I got it so that it felt right and set to work. I measured across the top of my shoulders and with that measurement and the one I got from my swatch I cast on provisionally and set to work, knitting down the back of the sweater (from top of the shoulder to under the arms). Because I prefer
to knit than purl, I added a few stitches for a steek and proceeded to knit in the round so that I
could always see my work from the front. Eventually when the back was long enough, I cut it open after securing the stitches on the sides and then I went back to the cast on, took out the rest yarn and knit with the exposed live stitches on the shoulders (putting the neck stitches on a holder) knitting back and forth and slowly increasing so around the neck until I have the neckline I want. Now I can try on the sweater whenever I want adjusting and tweaking as I knit. I continue knitting straight down slowly increasing 1/3 down the armholes so the sweater fits nicely over the bust. Eventually the front is joined with the stitches in the back so and I have all the stitches on my circular needle. The photo on the
right shows my progress.

Now I started to play combing different patterns and textures. I went ahead and knitted the neck band, which I liked ........⇓

Since I liked the neckline so much, I got completely carried away and ended up with patterns and texture and then more pattern. I felt like I completely lost my original vision of the fairisle and pleats. I let the project rest a little while and finished up some other ongoing things all the while thinking about the sweater. What did I want? The challenge is to capture the image I have in my head whether it be a knitted project or a painting, although sometimes when you are exploring a concept you can end up with something completely different and better than what you had originally wanted but this time my first idea was better than the busy and distracting patterns I had ended up with on my needles. I ended up ripping everything out until about an inch under the arms.














Thursday, August 19, 2010

A story by a 10 year old knitter


At the elementary school my children attended, knitting was part of the school curriculum. A wonderful woman named Mrs. Hopkins began teaching the children to knit in second grade. They had to knit a series of projects before they could knit proficiently enough to join the afternoon Knitting Club, which was everyone's great ambition, partly because Mrs. Hopkins was such an inspirational (although strict) teacher and partly because truly great projects were produced like chipmunks, kangaroos, and monkeys. Not to forget that the snacks in Knitting Club were fantastic too.

The first project in second grade was the practice piece, then came the dish cloth (the original my son knit is shown on the left), then the pin cushion, then the marble bag and upon finishing all of these, the children could join the Knitting Club and knit whatever they wanted from Mrs. Hopkins wonderful book of stuffed animals. My son, after quietly turning his back on the class in second grade, and cutting his practice piece to tiny bits with his blunt school scissors, eventually went on to become a proficient knitter and joined the Knitting Club. HOWEVER there were rules to the Knitting Club too and since he was a lively, forgetful boy he suffered the consequences of those rules regularly. After he had forgotten his knitting in progress three times (he still stayed for knitting club because of the cheese sticks, and fruit cups that were offered but had nothing to knit that day), he had to write a story about knitting as a consequence. And here it is.....

The Messy Babysitter
My Mom had gone on a run and my sister was crying because my Mom was gone. My brother and I were looking after our sister Andrea. We tried to think of something to distract her. We made funny faces but that didn't help. We gave her some yogurt and she threw it at the walls. We tried to get her to stop throwing the yogurt but she threw some on my glasses and on my brother's nose. So we put her in the bathtub and went downstairs to clean up the kitchen. A little while later I saw a stream of water flowing downstairs. I rushed upstairs and found Andrea out of the tub, and the water overflowing. Andrea was in the toilet flushing herself and saying WHEEE as she spun around. After a little while she started crying again, so we took her outside and to the swing set and since it was raining and pouring a little, she started jumping in puddles and splashing us. Pretty soon she looked like she needed another bath, but not in the toilet this time.

We took her back inside and scraped the mud off Andrea since we decided not to risk another bath. We went downstairs and into the kitchen and started baking a cake. We told Andrea she could help if she stopped screaming and she stopped so we let her use the electric mixer but that was a bad idea. She turned it on and put it on high speed and pretty soon dough was hitting the walls and we were hiding under the table so we wouldn't get dough in our eyes. She started grabbing ingredients and pretty soon the whole room was foggy and wet because of the flour and the olive oil. After we got the mixer away from Andrea she started to cry AGAIN. SO we took her upstairs and gave her another bath and dressed her. And then we had to scrub the kitchen floor and put a fan in the kitchen to blow out all the flour.

Meanwhile Andrea started to cry again, so I finally got out my knitting and started to knit on the pterodactyl I was working on. After a little while her eyes began to get wide and tired. It was as if I was hypnotizing her with my knitting. Whenever I stopped she began to howl and cry, so I just kept on knitting until she started to fall asleep. She was snoring so loud that it felt like an earthquake in our house. It felt like we were in the California earthquake. Then my mom came home and I had knitted a sock, two sweaters, a glove, an undershirt plus some long underwear.



THE END

(the bag to the left was also knitted by my son once he was a more experienced knitter and I still treasure it today, 10 years later)

Sunday, May 16, 2010



Knitted Tee ©runningsusi

by Susi Ferguson


Difficulty [Piquant]

This garment is knitted in the round. Pattern is worked first as shown on chart for the body and then only repeating the seagull part of pattern (first 6 stitches) at the yoke. Note: This yarn is very drapey and garments GROW. Thus don’t be alarmed by the finished measurements, across the shoulders. After wearing it once it will grow to the right shape and then stay there because of the tightly knitted stitches at the yoke.


SIZE

M (about 18 inches/ 46cm across the shoulders before wearing and 20 inches/51cm after wearing. The hem measures 18inches/ 46cm)



MATERIALS

MC Rowan Lenpur Linen [75% villenpur and 25% linen]; color 571 Natural; 5 skeins

CC Rowan Lenpur Linen [75% villenpur and 25% linen]; color 567 Blackberry; 4 skeins


1 24-inch US 8/5mm circular needle

1 24-inch US 9/5.25mm circular needle

1 set US 6/4.25 mm double-point needle


GAUGE

24 stitches/30 rows following chart over 4 inches on 5mm needles


PATTERN NOTES

Latvian Braid: latvian braid tutorial

First round, *knit one in MC, then knit one in CC*, repeat to the end of round. Second round, *with both yarns in front, purl one in MC then purl one in CC always bringing working yarn UNDER the other* repeat to end of the round.

Third round, *purl one in MC then purl one in CC always bringing working yarn OVER the other* repeat to end of the round.


Make one: lift strand of yarn between two stitches and knit into the back of this stitch.


Wrapping a stitch: slip stitch to left needle bring yarn to opposite side, slip stitch back and and turn work.


Ribbing: *knit 2, purl 2* repeat to end


Seagull Pattern: Round 1, with MC *slip next 2 stitches on cable needle behind work, knit the next stitch then knit one and slip one from the cable needle. Place next stitch on cable needle in front of work, slip next stitch, knit 1 then knit stitch from cable needle. Knit 6* repeat to end.

Round 2, with MC knit 2, *slip 2, knit 10* repeat from * to last 8 stitches then knit to end.

Round 3, with CC *slip next 2 stitches on to cable needle behind work, knit the next stitch then knit one, slip one from the cable needle. Place next stitch on cable needle in front of work, slip next stitch, knit 1 then knit stitch from cable needle. Knit 6* repeat to end.



Seagull Pattern:










sl

sl



8






*

*

*

7









sl

sl



6






*

*

*

5









sl

sl



4






*

*

*

3









sl

sl



2






*

*

*

1

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1





*** = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind work. Knit next stitch then knit one and slip one from the cable needle.

☆☆☆ = place next stitch on cable needle in front of work. Slip one stitch and knit one stitch then knit one from the cable needle.

sl = slip the next stitch as if to purl (without knitting it)


PATTERN

Body

Border: Cast on 160 stitches with MC on 5mm needles. Knit one row with MC then work latvian braid in yarns MC and CC. Knit one row in MC. Place marker at beginning of round and after 80 stitches.

Next row, increase row. *Knit 8 stitches, make one* repeat from * to end. 180 stitches. (marker, 90 stitches, marker 90 stitches)

Continue knitting with MC and follow chart beginning on row 2 (from right to left till end of round) repeating the chart until body measures 17 inches/48cm finishing with CC. With MC knit one round (in pattern) placing first 9 stitches of round and last 9 stitches of round on holder for sleeve (18 stitches) then knit 72 stitches in pattern place next 18 stitches on holder. Knit to end.

Sleeves (make two)

Cast on 56 stitches onto double pointed needles with MC. Knit one round and then work Latvian braid in MC and CC. Work ribbing two rounds MC then two rounds CC until sleeve measures 3 inches ending with CC. Place last 18 stitches of sleeve on scrap yarn or holder.

Join Sleeves

Place marker, with MC work in ribbing over sleeve, place marker then knit back of body in established pattern, place marker then knit second sleeve in ribbing, place marker and finally knit front of body in established pattern. 220 stitches. Change to 5.25mm/US 9 needle.

Yoke

Knit another round with yarn MC. Increase round with CC: knit across all right sleeve stitches increasing 6 times evenly. Slip marker then knit first 6 stitches in established pattern then *make 1, then knit into the front and back of next stitch* repeat from *to * 6 times. 12 stitches increased. Knit back of sweater in seagull pattern until 6 stitches before marker and repeat increase as before knit 6 stitches in pattern and increase again from *. Knit sleeve in ribbing then increase from* repeating 3 times. Knit 6 stitches in pattern then increase from * 3times. Knit to 18 stitches before end of round and increase as before 280 stitches. Next round begin seagull pattern on sleeve by starting on row 2 of chart repeating the first 6 stitches of pattern. Continue in seagull pattern (repeat first 6 stitches of chart) only and knit16 rounds .

Short rows to shape back and neck. Knit in pattern to 4th marker, wrap next stitch and turn work, slip first stitch then continue back to the beginning of the round purling instead of knitting and slipping stitches following pattern. Continue in short rows to 4th marker until color matches that of the stitches not worked in short rows. Continue working in the round until 25 rows of double seagull pattern have worked. Work short rows to 4th marker as before, then work short rows only right shoulder (from first marker to 2nd) knitting or purling 2 stitches together (last stitch of row before the marker with one stitch on the past marker) at the end of each row, then knit wrap the next stitch and turn work. Slip marker to other side of decreased stitches. Continue decreasing one stitch at end of each row for 6 rows. Then begin decreasing 2 stitches per row (knit or purl 3 together at each end of row) for 4 rows then around the back (color should continue established pattern and if not then work knit and purl once more before continuing) knit to 3d marker and repeat short rows as before. Continue to beginning of round. Change color knit one round in pattern.

Decrease round: * Knit 2 together, slip 2* repeat from * to * till end of round.

Change to 4 mm needles knit one in MC, knit one in CC repeat this to the end of the row. At the same time knit 2 stitches together every 4th stitch. Work Latvian braid in MC and CC. Next round knit withMC decreasing every 4th stitch. Cast off all stitches tightly.

Finishing weave in all ends. Graft stitches together at armpit. Dampen and iron lightly. No blocking to measurements needed. Wear and enjoy!




Tuesday, May 4, 2010


Free Spirit Hat © runningsusi


von
 Susi 
Ferguson



‐
DEUTSCHE VERSION
‐
 


übersetzt von Natascha Vögele


Diese
 Mütze 
wird 
in 
Runden
 auf 
einem
 Nadelspiel
 gestrickt. 
Latvian
 Braids 
werden 
als 
Rand
 gearbeitet
 und 
ergänzen 
das
 Hebemaschen
 Muster 
der 
Mütze 
perfekt.


Ich
 habe 
diese 
Mütze 
in 
Wollmeisen 
Garn
 gearbeitet,
 aber
 es 
kann 
auch
 anderes
 Garn
 mit
 ähnlicher 
Stärke 
und 
Lauflänge
 benutzt 
werden. 
Gängige 
Sockenwolle
 ist 
perfekt.



Schwierigkeitsgrad:



einfach,
 außer 
dem 
Latvian 
Braid 
Rand, 
der 
anfangs 
etwas 
herausfordernd 
ist.
 Alternativ 
kann 
aber 
auch 
ein 
kraus
gestrickter 
Rand 
gearbeitet
 werden.
 




Größen:


S 
(für
Kinder),
 M
 (großzügiges 
Medium), 
L
( auch
XL)
 



Maße:

Breite: 
21.5cm


Höhe: 
S
‐
 19cm
 


M
‐
 20cm
 


L
‐
 
22cm



Materialien:


• 
[MC] 
50gr 
Rohrspatz&Wollmeise
 [100%
superwash
merino];
 "Dani"



•
 [CC1] 
30gr
 Rohrspatz&Wollmeise
 [100%
superwash
merino]; 
"Single
Malt"



•
 [CC2]
 10gr 
Rohrspatz&Wollmeise 
[100%
superwash
merino]; 
"Sonne"




MC
=
Hauptfarbe;
CC1
=
1te
Kontrastfarbe;
CC2
=
2te
Kontrastfarbe



•
 1 
Nadelspiel 
2.5mm


• 
6 
Maschenmarkierer



Maschenprobe:


36 
Maschen
 und 
44 
Reihen 
= 
10 
* 
10cm


 



TECHNIKEN 
für
 den 
MÜTZENRAND


...mit 
Latvian
 Braids:


Tutorial
dazu
‐>
http://www.savannahchik.com/2007/01/tutorial_latvian_techniques.htm


R1:

 *1
 re
 mit 
MC, 
1 re 
mit
 CC* 
immer 
wiederholen



R2: 
*1
 li
 mit 
MC,
 1 
li
 mit
 CC
*
 immer 
wiederholen. 
Dabei
 beide
 Fäden
 VOR 
die
 Arbeit
 halten;
 der 
Faden 
mit
 dem
 gearbeitet 
wird,
 muss
 immer 
UNTER
 dem
 anderen 
gehalten 
werden
 (dabei
 werden 
die 
Fäden 
verkreuzt,
 was
 sich
 aber 
in
 der 
nächsten 
Runde 
wieder 
löst)



R3:
 *1
 li
 mit 
MC,
 1 
li
 mit 
CC* 
immer
wiederholen. 
Dabei 
beide 
Fäden
 VOR 
die 
Arbeit
 halten; 
der
 Faden 
mit 
dem
 gearbeitet 
wird, 
muss
 nun
 ÜBER
 dem 
anderen 
gehalten 
werden


...mit 
krausem 
Rand:



R1: 
links 
stricken 
mit 
MC
 
 R5: links stricken mit MC

R2: 
rechts 
stricken 
mit
 CC1



 R6: rechts stricken mit CC2

R3:
 links
 stricken 
mit
 CC1
 R7: links stricken mit CC2

R4:
 rechts
 stricken
 mit 
M



 
 
 
 
 R8:
 rechts 
stricken
 mit 
MC
 
 


R9: links stricken mit MC


HEBEMASCHEN‐SCHEMA



R1‐3:
*1 M 
wie 
zum
 links stricken
 abheben,

 
3 re*
 wiederholen


R
4: 
alle 
Maschen
 rechts 
abstricken.



Es 
werden
 jeweils
 vier 
Reihen
 abwechselnd
 mit 
Hauptfarbe 
(blaue
 Felder)
 und 
jeweiliger
 Kontrastfarbe 
(gelbe 
Felder) 
gearbeitet.



Tabelle für Hebemaschen-schema














8




S




S




S

7




S




S




S

6




S




S




S

5













4




S




S




S

3




S




S




S

2




S




S




S

1

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1



S = Masche abheben




stricken mit MC





stricken mit CC1 or CC2


 
 
 


ANLEITUNG:




Rand


140 
Maschen
 auf 
dem
 Nadelspiel 
anschlagen
 und
 zur 
Runde
 schließen 
(aufpassen, 
dass
 man 
die
 Maschen
 dabei
 nicht 
verdreht!). 
Maschen markierer 
am 
Anfang
 der 
Runde 
einsetzen.
 Nun 
entweder 
Latvian
 Braids 
oder 
den
 krausen 
Rand
 arbeiten 
(siehe
 "Techniken 
für
 Mützenrand").
 Die 
Latvian 
Braids 
werden
 dreimal 
in 
folgender 
Farbfolge
 gestrickt: 
MC
 + 
CC1,
 dann
 MC 
+ 
CC2
 und 
zu letzt 
MC
 + 
CC1


Mütze


vorbereitende
 Runden



R1: 
glatt
 rechts 
mit
 MC


R2:
 *7 re, 
1 
re
verschränkt 
zunehmen*

 




bis 
zum
 Ende 
wiederholen
‐‐> 
160 
Maschen


R3: 
glatt
 rechts 
mit
 CC1
 



Nun
 wird 
mit 
folgender 
Farbfolge 
nach 
dem 
Hebemaschen‐ Schema
gestrickt:


Zweimal 
mit 
MC
 + 
CC1


Zweimal 
mit
 MC 
+
 CC2


Dreimal
 mit
 MC 
+
 CC1


Zweimal
 mit
 MC 
+ 
CC2


Bis
 zur 
Endgröße
 weiter 
mit 
MC
 + 
CC1 
stricken.
 



Mützenspitze
 /
 Abnahmen


Sobald
 die
 Höhe 
der 
Mütze 
11.5cm 
bei
 Größe 
S 
[
12.5cm
 bei 
Größe 
M; 

 14.5cm
 bei
 Größe
 L]
misst,
 wird 
das
 Schema 
in 
einer 
4ten 
oder 
8ten 
Runde 
beendet.


Dann 
beginnen
 die
 Abnahmen
 wie
 folgt:



**14 re, 
2
 re 
zusammen, 
(nächste 
Masche 
markieren) 
2 
re 
verschränkt 
zusammen, 
*27 re, 
2 
re
 zusammen,
 1 re 
(diese 
Masche 
markieren), 
2 
re 
verschränkt 
zusammen*

 ab
* 
noch 
3 mal
wiederholen, 
dann 
bis 
zum
 Ende 
der 
Runde
 glatt 
rechts. 
‐‐>
 150 
Maschen



3
 Runden 
nach
 Hebemaschenschema.



Bis
 2
 Maschen 
vor 
Markierer 
stricken
 und 
wie 
vorher 
abnehmen
‐‐>
 140 
Maschen


3
 Runden
 nach
 Hebemaschenschema.
 Bis
 1 
Masche 
vor 
jeden 
Markierer
 stricken 
und
 dann 
3 
zusammen
stricken
‐‐>
 130 
Maschen


3 
Runden
 nach
 Hebemaschenschema.



Die 
letzten 
4
 Runden
 wiederholen.
**
 
 In 
jeder 
weiteren
 Abnehmrunde
 wie
 zwischen
 ** 
beschrieben 
abnehmen, 
bis 
nur 
noch 
60
 Maschen 
übrig
 bleiben. 
Dann 
in
 JEDER 
Runde 
3 
Maschen 
bei
 den
 Markiereren
 zusammenstricken, 
bis 
nur 
noch 
10 
Maschen
 übrig 
bleiben.


Faden
 trennen
 und
 mit Hilfe 
einer 
Sticknadel 
zweimal 
durch 
die 
letzten
 10 
Maschen
 fädeln,
 festziehen 
und

 auf
 der 
Innenseite
 verwahren.


VIEL 
SPASS 
beim
 Nachstricken!


Hier 
noch
 eine
 alternative
 Farbkombination
 mit 
Wollmeise 
Gewitterhimmel 
als 
MC,
 Vergissmeinnicht
 als
 CC1
 und 
Zensi 
als
 CC2
 und 
krausem 
Rand.


Free Spirit Hat © runningsusi